victor_pv wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 01, 2017 7:27 pm
Roger, this blog shows the different methods with some videos, and compares them:
https://lowpowerlab.com/2015/03/27/lase ... -tutorial/
According to him the laser cut ones are the best. Obviously buying a $3000 or more cutter just for that is not worth it, that's where the siloutte cutter has an advantage.
In my case I bought a 3W laser for my 3d printer, since I wanted to also engrave wood and other materials. the 3W one actually is more than enough for cutting wood, not just engraving it. As soon as I get some transparency film, I'll try cutting stencils with it, but I'm sure after some tuning it should work.
I think last time I tried to cut a stencil I tried getting it to cut the individual outlines, but the result was not that good, as the machine is not really designed to cut lots of tiny lines, and getting the power vs speed vs acceleration of the machine just right is difficult
So the method in the video where it effectively rasterises the data, is much more controllable, as the cutting head is at a fixed speed as it sweeps across the target, and I should be able to set the power to the correct level, I.e too little and it doesn’t cut through at all, and too much and it’s likely to burn the edges.
BTW. 3W laser may be enough to cut Mylar if you go slow enough.
Also, my laser cost around $600 USD when I bought it 2 years ago. And in its basic form, it claims to be 50W but is actually 30W
But I did spend another $500 buying an commercial / industrial grade laser tube, and new 24kV PSU to get the power up to over 100W so I can cut thicker materials.
However even with 100W I can’t cut metal, of any thinness. Well actually, I have not tried any metal foil but I would not be able to cut metal thick enough to make a stencil